Knock or crunch when turning the wheel

A knock or crunch when turning the wheel is a common symptom that usually indicates problems with the movable elements of the suspension or steering system. Ignoring this sound can lead to wheel jamming or loss of control on the road, so diagnosis should not be delayed.

Likely causes — most common first

1

Wear of the CV joint

This unit transmits torque to the wheels, and when the protective cover is damaged, dirt and sand get in. Due to this, when turning the wheel, a characteristic metallic crunch appears, which usually intensifies when driving with gas.

How to check:Look under the front wings and check the rubber covers on the half shafts: if they are torn and greasy, the joint is damaged.
2

Faulty shock absorber bearing

The bearing at the top of the shock absorber provides free rotation of the shock absorber with the wheel. When moisture or lubricant gets inside, it starts to jam, creating a dry crunch or clicks under the hood.

How to check:Ask an assistant to turn the wheel while stationary, and put your hand on the suspension spring: if you feel sharp jerks or vibration, the problem is there.
3

Wear of the tie rod ends or links

The hinge connections of the steering trapezoid are damaged over time due to loads and potholes on the road. As a result, play appears, accompanied by a muffled knock during sharp turns of the wheel.

How to check:Lift the car on a jack and try to rock the wheel in the horizontal plane by hand: noticeable play indicates wear of the steering parts.
4

Steering rack problems

The internal mechanism of the rack wears out over time, forming gaps between the teeth of the shaft and gear. This causes a knock and backlash in the steering wheel during maneuvers on uneven roads.

How to check:Pay attention to whether there are any leaks of power steering fluid under the hood and whether the steering wheel has become tighter.
5

Loosening of suspension or protection mounts

When driving on bumps, the bolts of the subframe, control arms, or metal protection of the engine can loosen. When tilting or turning, the parts shift and produce a characteristic metallic knock.

How to check:Visually inspect the bottom and ask a mechanic on a lift to check the torque of the main suspension bolts.

Parts most often replaced for this symptom

Frequently asked questions

Can I continue driving if the steering wheel only crunches when fully turned?
A short trip to the service is possible, but avoid sharp maneuvers and full turns of the wheel. If the crunch turns into a crack with strong jamming, it is worth stopping the movement.
How much does the repair cost and can I only replace the boot?
The price depends on what exactly failed - replacing the boot is inexpensive, while replacing the CV joint or steering rack will be much more expensive due to the cost of parts and labor.
Can the problem disappear on its own after lubrication?
No, if mechanical damage, metal wear, or corrosion has already appeared inside the bearings, simply adding lubricant will only have a temporary effect.
Do I need to do wheel alignment after repair?
Yes, necessarily, if during the repair, elements of the steering system or suspension were removed (tie rod ends, struts, control arms), otherwise, the car will pull to the side and the tires will wear out quickly.

This material is for reference only and does not replace a hands-on inspection. The final verdict on the fault and on whether the car is safe to drive is made by a mechanic after diagnosing the vehicle.